Our first full day in Kyiv and we hit the streets hard. A great way to break in my new trail shoes. After a hearty breakfast of potato pancakes with sour cream and kompot, we headed out to explore the city. We had no real itinerary in mind - just walk around and see what happens. We have 3 days here so we knew we could hit the sights on another day.
We decided to try and head to Andryisky Uzviv - a curving cobblestone street covered in stalls selling everything from embroidered blouses to kitchy Soviet memorabilia. On the way there we hit at least 3 churches.
The first was St. Sophia, which has a tall bell tower entrance. This was the most expensive of the three - with a 2 hryvnia entrance to the grounds and 5 hryvnia fee to climb the tower. We didn't go into the church itself - 20 hryvnia and no photos. I'm so picky now - no photos and a fee deters me. The church was stunning, with 7 gold domes. The view of it from the tower - yep, I climbed - was perfect for photos. We made it all the way to the top and I have to say there was a little vertigo happening.
We next hit St. Michael's which is quite breathtaking as well - robin's egg blue with another 7(?) gold domes. The entrance through the walled exterior is covered in Byzantine style religious frescoes. Some fantastic photography here. Next to this church stands a smaller, traditional Ukrainian church with the dark wooden shingle roof and tower. Quite the contrast to the more baroque looking colourful one next door.
Then we climbed, and climbed, and climbed. As we hit the art street (kitsch street?) we hit St. Sophia of Kiev church which was even more extravagant - more Roccocco style this time. No photos inside again but the exterior was forest green with gold accents.
Our adventuring took us all over side streets that had what we thought were abandoned buildings, covered in graffiti, which we have now termed "buildings with character" as it seems that here nothing is really abandoned, no matter how decayed or decrepit. When walking along the Dnipro River, we came upon some industrial buildings that had some great colour and look to them, only to be encouraged away by a very unhappy dog and his owner.
Dogs - they're everywhere. They run in packs and they seem to stake a claim to a square or parkette and if you invade what they feel is their territory, the barking starts and they follow you until you get to the nearest crosswalk. We watched so many people get "escorted" to the crosswalks today only to be escorted ourselves in the afternoon by our angry barky guide. WE steered clear of any dog gangs the rest of the day.
An amazing, interesting, eye-opening first day. Getting picked up at 7:30am for Chernobyl tomorrow. Need to rest up.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Surreal in the City
It's been a strange 24 (36?) hours since we left Toronto. I'm in Kyiv now and we headed straight into the city to try and keep awake long enough to get our sleep patterns to mesh with the new time change.
After a good solid dinner at a cafeteria-style diner that served all Ukrainian dishes (the goulash was nice and soft), Mat and I headed out for some walking and photo snapping with no real intentions of where to go. We just knew where the subway was and how to get back to the apartment.
Detours - they can be a lot of fun. You take a cobblestone path up a hill and you spot a pink decaying building behind a fence. We knew it was a hospital of some kind and that picqued our interest. Of course this is Eastern Europe - never assume something is not in use just because it looks worn out - that's just character. The main gate had an open doorway in it with a sign that roughly said "Clinic this way", so we went.
The buildings on the grounds were amazing. Mostly in shades of fading pink and moss green, with definite signs of decay and rot, evident from half missing cement balconies. I kept waiting for someone to ask us why we were there, who we were. It never happened - everyone was polite and just left us to do our thing. I finally read the sign on the way out - Ministry of Health.
On the way back to the Metro, we came upon a big crowd watching a group of breakdancers on the sidewalk near Indepence Square. Pretty talented bunch. What a great ending to a wonderful adventure and surprise-filled day.
After a good solid dinner at a cafeteria-style diner that served all Ukrainian dishes (the goulash was nice and soft), Mat and I headed out for some walking and photo snapping with no real intentions of where to go. We just knew where the subway was and how to get back to the apartment.
Detours - they can be a lot of fun. You take a cobblestone path up a hill and you spot a pink decaying building behind a fence. We knew it was a hospital of some kind and that picqued our interest. Of course this is Eastern Europe - never assume something is not in use just because it looks worn out - that's just character. The main gate had an open doorway in it with a sign that roughly said "Clinic this way", so we went.
The buildings on the grounds were amazing. Mostly in shades of fading pink and moss green, with definite signs of decay and rot, evident from half missing cement balconies. I kept waiting for someone to ask us why we were there, who we were. It never happened - everyone was polite and just left us to do our thing. I finally read the sign on the way out - Ministry of Health.
On the way back to the Metro, we came upon a big crowd watching a group of breakdancers on the sidewalk near Indepence Square. Pretty talented bunch. What a great ending to a wonderful adventure and surprise-filled day.
Kiev!
Saturday, August 29, 2009
All hail the Alliance
We're off on the road to Ukraine... to Ukraine... to Ukraine. Now
which one of us is supposed to be Bob Hope? (Roadie movie reference
for those under 35)
which one of us is supposed to be Bob Hope? (Roadie movie reference
for those under 35)
I must say that I feel spoiled this time around - I've never set foot
in an Alliance Elite Lounge before. I didn't know this aviation utopia
existed. Free snacks, drinks, wifi, magazines, newspapers (English and
French of course), big cushy leather chairs... And quiet blissful
solitude.
I don't know if I'll ever be able to travel with the masses again.
Best enjoy it while I can. Dusseldorf here we come -can't wait to see
what you have to offer two weary jetlagged travelers at 6 in the
morning.
(Sent from my iTouch)
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Catacombing
We've booked another great tour that should be a lot of fun - the Odessa Catacombs. Although we had the option to do 2 days in the catacombs (staying overnight in sleeping bags), my lower back gave me a big NO! when I even contemplated this.
BACKGROUND
The Odessa Catacombs labyrinth approximately 2500 kilmetres under the city and surrounding neighbourhoods. They developed over the last two hundred years, beginning as natural formations and completing with the addition of man-made tunnels. The major part of them are made up of former limestone mines used to build the city's 19thC homes, with the remainder being natural caivities and sewage tunnels. The full extent of the catacombs has not been mapped and is a primary reason a subway system was never built in Odessa.
The first stone mines appeared in the second half of the 19thC with building growth in the city. They were used as a source of cheap construction materials. During World War II, the catacombs served as a hiding place for Soviet partisans and their struggles were detailed in the book The Waves of the Black Sea by Valentin Kataev. Armies were able to house enough food and weaponry to keep them underground for almost six months at a time. In 1961, the Poisk Club was created to explore the history of the partisan movement in the catacombs and it expanded the catographical boundaries of the area.
By the 21stC limestone mines were discontinued in Odessa. Today, the catacombs are a great attraction for "extreme" tourists but you must go in with a guide.
(Some information from Wikipedia - Odessa Catacombs)
(Photo from Wikimedia Commons - Polyschuk Dennis Anatolyevycz)
BACKGROUND
The Odessa Catacombs labyrinth approximately 2500 kilmetres under the city and surrounding neighbourhoods. They developed over the last two hundred years, beginning as natural formations and completing with the addition of man-made tunnels. The major part of them are made up of former limestone mines used to build the city's 19thC homes, with the remainder being natural caivities and sewage tunnels. The full extent of the catacombs has not been mapped and is a primary reason a subway system was never built in Odessa.
The first stone mines appeared in the second half of the 19thC with building growth in the city. They were used as a source of cheap construction materials. During World War II, the catacombs served as a hiding place for Soviet partisans and their struggles were detailed in the book The Waves of the Black Sea by Valentin Kataev. Armies were able to house enough food and weaponry to keep them underground for almost six months at a time. In 1961, the Poisk Club was created to explore the history of the partisan movement in the catacombs and it expanded the catographical boundaries of the area.
By the 21stC limestone mines were discontinued in Odessa. Today, the catacombs are a great attraction for "extreme" tourists but you must go in with a guide.
(Some information from Wikipedia - Odessa Catacombs)
(Photo from Wikimedia Commons - Polyschuk Dennis Anatolyevycz)
Monday, August 24, 2009
The Gear for the Going!
From left to right, Gitzo carbon fibre tripod and ball head, canon lenses; 14mm, 70-300mm, 50mm, 24-105mm, Canon 5D MKll body, spare battery, 40Gigs of memory, rocket air blower, cable release, LED flashlight. My polarizing filter may also make the trip. With this reduced load, I will be able to pack it all into my new Lowepro Classified 160 AW bag. Ready, set....!
Update: I was able to squeeze my 580EX Speedlite into the bag so it's coming too!
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Wheat Free in the Bread Basket
One of my biggest challenges during the trip will have nothing to do with transportation, language, local customs, or photography. For two weeks, I will be traveling through the bread basket of Europe and I am what intolerant. Luckily it's different from celiac disease or I would be really in trouble - I can't have wheat, but with celiac you have to avoid all gluten which can even be found in vitamins.
Growing up in a Ukrainian family I'm already familiar with some local foods - although the dishes we eat in Canada are just the tip of the iceberg of traditional cuisine. Having been diagnosed with a food allergy later in life, I've learned to adapt and modify the recipes so that I don't have to give up my favourites, but I doubt that they have pyrohy made of rice flour in Kyiv.
One amazing resource that I have found to help me eat at the local establishments is an iTunes App for my iTouch called the Gluten Free Restaurant Card. Although aimed more towards those that have Celiac Disease, this app created by www.celiactravel.com contains 43 language translations of text that basically says "I am allergic to foods containing flour or grains of wheat, rye, barley and oats. Does this food contain these ingredients?" You choose the language you need and then you can show the translated card to your waiter to read. They don't have Ukrainian, but they have Russian which is close enough since many people speak it in the cities. I can see myself using this app on many trips to countries where I am not fluent in the local language.
There are a lot of great foods that I can look forward to while I'm in Ukraine, and some that I love that I'm going to have to avoid:
FOODS I'M GOING TO MISS OUT ON
Some food name and descriptions from Wikipedia - Ukrainian Food. Images from Wikimedia Commons.
Growing up in a Ukrainian family I'm already familiar with some local foods - although the dishes we eat in Canada are just the tip of the iceberg of traditional cuisine. Having been diagnosed with a food allergy later in life, I've learned to adapt and modify the recipes so that I don't have to give up my favourites, but I doubt that they have pyrohy made of rice flour in Kyiv.
One amazing resource that I have found to help me eat at the local establishments is an iTunes App for my iTouch called the Gluten Free Restaurant Card. Although aimed more towards those that have Celiac Disease, this app created by www.celiactravel.com contains 43 language translations of text that basically says "I am allergic to foods containing flour or grains of wheat, rye, barley and oats. Does this food contain these ingredients?" You choose the language you need and then you can show the translated card to your waiter to read. They don't have Ukrainian, but they have Russian which is close enough since many people speak it in the cities. I can see myself using this app on many trips to countries where I am not fluent in the local language.
There are a lot of great foods that I can look forward to while I'm in Ukraine, and some that I love that I'm going to have to avoid:
FOODS I'M GOING TO MISS OUT ON
vushka - little mushroom-filled dumplings you get in borscht.- pyrohy - the fried version of "pierogies" and often filled with fruit or poppy seed filling for dessert.
- varenyky - the boiled version of "pierogies" normally filled with potatoes, cabbage, cheese and topped with butter, sour cream, bacon, and onions
- nalisnyky - crepes that you can fill with cottage cheese, meat, caviar or fruit
- kotlety - minced meat or fish fritters rolled in breadcrumbs
- kanapky - black or white bread-based canapes topped with mayo or butter, caviar, smoked herring, cucumber/tomato slices and dill
- pampushky - fried sweet dough similar to doughnut hole, filled with sweet fillings.
- pyvo - beer
- kasha hrechana zi shkvarkamy - buckwheat cereal with chopped, fried bacon and onion
- ohirky - sour pickles
- kapusta - sauerkraut
- borscht - beet soup (with a dollop of sour cream)
- hrybivka - mushroom soup
- kapusniak - sauerkraut soup
- yushka - fish soup, usually carp
- holubtsi - cabbage rolls with rice and meat (avoiding the ones with buckwheat)
- syrnyky - cottage cheese fritters (sometimes with raisins - blech!)
- pechenya - roast meat
- kartoplia - potato with sour cream, butter and dill
- huliash - stew
- kovbasa - various smoked or bolied pork, beef or chicken sausage
- shashlyk - shish kebab of lamb and vegetables marinated in vinegar and grilled on skewers with white wine
- pliatsky - potato pancakes with sour cream
- sichenyky - minced beef with omelette and fried onions
- torte - cakes, frequently made without flour using instead ground walnuts or almonds
- salo - salted (or occasionally raw) unrendered pork lard similar to bacon but with a higher ration of fat to meat. Eaten as a snack. Also available as "chocolate covered".
- studynets - jellied fish or meat
- kvas - a sweet and sour sparkling beverage made from yeast, sugar and dried rye bread
Some food name and descriptions from Wikipedia - Ukrainian Food. Images from Wikimedia Commons.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Let's Play It By Ear - Sort Of
Two weeks to go before we fly out so we decided to meet and firm up our itinerary for the trip. We realized we needed to do the math on the train schedules, bus information, and distances to see if our ambitious plan would work.
As much as we want to see everything the country has to offer, we're realistic about only having 2 weeks on the road. Our main objective was always to get to Chernobyl for photography - and with that booked and in place, being able to get around the rest of the country and photograph Soviet-era structures, onion domed churches, historic Ukrainian architecture, and many other of Ukraine's forgotten and decaying structures is a wonderful extra.
Since we don't know just how much we'll see in the different locations we visit, we've decided to keep it loose. It's usually the way I like to travel anyway. The flexibility allows you to spend as much or as little time as you need in one place without the worry of having to make it to a reservation. I've traveled with people who need every single hour of every day scheduled out for them - I'm not really like that, doesn't leave room for those great detours in life. Luckily we both seem to be more into the adventure and not the schedule so I think we're going to travel quite well together.
So if it's a loose itinerary, do we even know where we're going now, you might ask? Sure:
Where we go in between and how long we stay in the main cities is the adventure right now. As long as we're back in Kyiv to fly home on time, I'm happy flittering around the country and exploring, meeting people, adding stories and images to our project.
View Larger Map
As much as we want to see everything the country has to offer, we're realistic about only having 2 weeks on the road. Our main objective was always to get to Chernobyl for photography - and with that booked and in place, being able to get around the rest of the country and photograph Soviet-era structures, onion domed churches, historic Ukrainian architecture, and many other of Ukraine's forgotten and decaying structures is a wonderful extra.
Since we don't know just how much we'll see in the different locations we visit, we've decided to keep it loose. It's usually the way I like to travel anyway. The flexibility allows you to spend as much or as little time as you need in one place without the worry of having to make it to a reservation. I've traveled with people who need every single hour of every day scheduled out for them - I'm not really like that, doesn't leave room for those great detours in life. Luckily we both seem to be more into the adventure and not the schedule so I think we're going to travel quite well together.
So if it's a loose itinerary, do we even know where we're going now, you might ask? Sure:
Kyiv > Chernobyl > Kyiv > Odesa > Lviv > Kyiv
Where we go in between and how long we stay in the main cities is the adventure right now. As long as we're back in Kyiv to fly home on time, I'm happy flittering around the country and exploring, meeting people, adding stories and images to our project.
View Larger Map
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Get Into The Zone
For those who don't know about Chernobyl's Alienation Zone, here's the quick and dirty version of where we're aiming to go for our photography excursion:
ZONE OF ALIENATION
The Zone was established after the disaster in 1986 in order to evacuate the local population and prevent people from entering the contaminated area. It is made up of 4 concentric circular zones with the closest in, about 30km from the site, being the most contaminated. Within the zones are hot spots of radiation where equipment has been buried and many of these remain unmapped - some committed to memory and some unknown. Authorities try to protect these spots not only from tourists but scrap hunters as well.
The Zone operates within its own civil rules, with its own police (the MVS) and State Border Guard Service of Ukraine, all administered by the Administration of the Alienation Zone. These branches work together to police the shift workers who come in to the nuclear site, tourists, visiting officials and dignitaries, and interlopers.
Interesting Facts
(With information from Wikipedia page Zone of Alienation)
ZONE OF ALIENATION
The Zone was established after the disaster in 1986 in order to evacuate the local population and prevent people from entering the contaminated area. It is made up of 4 concentric circular zones with the closest in, about 30km from the site, being the most contaminated. Within the zones are hot spots of radiation where equipment has been buried and many of these remain unmapped - some committed to memory and some unknown. Authorities try to protect these spots not only from tourists but scrap hunters as well.The Zone operates within its own civil rules, with its own police (the MVS) and State Border Guard Service of Ukraine, all administered by the Administration of the Alienation Zone. These branches work together to police the shift workers who come in to the nuclear site, tourists, visiting officials and dignitaries, and interlopers.
Interesting Facts
- The cloud of heavily polluted radioactive dust produced the Red Forest - a strand of highly-irradiated pine near the plant.
- Many species of wildlife have flourished due to the significant reduction of human impact - wolves, wild boar, red deer, moose, and beaver.
- Przewalski's Horses - a rare and endangered subspecies of wild horse native to the steppes of Central Asia - which were released in the area after the disaster are flourishing.
- Brown bear, which has not been seen in the area for several decades, has been reported as well as wild lynx.
- There are 800 known burial grounds for irradiated vehicles, hundreds of abandoned military vehicles & helicopters, and river ships and barges lie in the abandoned ports.
(With information from Wikipedia page Zone of Alienation)
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
This message was brought to you by...
"The Agency of information, international co-operation and development "Agency ChornobylInterInform"
Here I am, and here we go! Almost a year ago, Olena and I had a chat at an art opening about Chernobyl and how we should go. A few meetings later, and a well written grant application, we are almost on our way! I have generally had a crazy year and have had very little time to prepare for this trip, but we do have a good framework for our itinerary and lots of room for spontaneity.
What has mostly been on my mind lately has been what to pack! Which lenses? How much clothes? Laptop? rolling luggage or backpack? Pepperettes?
I will probably try out a few different combinations and see what works best.
Right now though, I have a week at a cottage to pack for, and when I get back from that, we will be about 5 days from leaving!
First post, done!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Chernobylzone
After several weeks of back and forth emails with a contact in Ukraine, we've sent off our info to book a two day private tour of Chernobyl and Pripyat. The company is Chernobylzone - Journeys Into Chernobyl Alienation Area. It's been interesting communicating through email as their English is pretty good, but obviously not their mother tongue. Of course, I can always get additional information from their website - after I learn Russian. I speak/read Ukrainian so I can make out some of it, but it's not quite the same.
There's some additional items we could have for the tour (for a fee of course) and we thought it would be geeky/cool to have the dosimeters but I had to email them to explain the "IPE" gear. Turns out it's a slimming all-white one-piece outfit complete with hood for you to wear while exploring around the radiated area. The ultimate in geek chic. I wasn't going to go for it until I read the part about having to throw out the clothes you wear on the tour if you happen to get any soil/debris/etc. on them. IPE gear it is then.
Looking forward to seeing exactly what type of hotel we'll be staying at outside of the alienation zone overnight. Apparently it's nothing fancy but the only one in the area. For me, the chance to interact with the people who have lived in the area, within the shadow of the reactor and its effects, and to see how the area has changed in the 20+ years since the disaster more than makes up for a lumpy bed.
Fingers crossed that our dates get approved for the tour.
There's some additional items we could have for the tour (for a fee of course) and we thought it would be geeky/cool to have the dosimeters but I had to email them to explain the "IPE" gear. Turns out it's a slimming all-white one-piece outfit complete with hood for you to wear while exploring around the radiated area. The ultimate in geek chic. I wasn't going to go for it until I read the part about having to throw out the clothes you wear on the tour if you happen to get any soil/debris/etc. on them. IPE gear it is then.
Looking forward to seeing exactly what type of hotel we'll be staying at outside of the alienation zone overnight. Apparently it's nothing fancy but the only one in the area. For me, the chance to interact with the people who have lived in the area, within the shadow of the reactor and its effects, and to see how the area has changed in the 20+ years since the disaster more than makes up for a lumpy bed.
Fingers crossed that our dates get approved for the tour.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Welcome to the panic room
So we finally got around to putting together our blog - 3 weeks before we leave for Ukraine. I guess introductions are in order and an explanation of why we're embarking on this journey.
I'll let Photomat introduce himself - me, I'm a photographer with a graphic design background. The focus of my photography is forgotten spaces and I have been interested in shooting Chernobyl and Pripyat for quite a while. I've seen the books (Polidori), the exhibits (again Polidori comes to mind), and some great documentaries with exceptional photographs from organizations such as National Geographic. I'm not a documentary style photographer and have wanted to interpret this area in my own style.
Our project is called Volatile Particles - inspired by an article examining the effects of the Chernobyl disaster upon the local area and more widely across the world. It refers to the contaminants that were released into the air from the meltdown and the fact that half of these landed outside the immediate area, some affecting regions as far as the UK. The exhibit will explore the Chernobyl disaster through photography, documentary video, and personal stories of survivors and those who reside in the local area today. By examining the disaster through resident's voices, the aim is to personalize the photography and experience for the viewer. In the end, our exhibit will combine photography, documentary video, personal stories (hopefully), and be juxtaposed with our increasing dependence on the nuclear industry and how we are working to ensure that this type of disaster does not happen on Canadian soil. All thanks in part to the Ontario Arts Council.
And of course, we will have a wild (mis)adventure exploring Ukraine - from Kyiv in the North, to Odessa in the South, and Lviv in the West. So where are we now?
Stay tuned for posts of our journey - planning, travel, touring, and final exhibit. Dobranich!
I'll let Photomat introduce himself - me, I'm a photographer with a graphic design background. The focus of my photography is forgotten spaces and I have been interested in shooting Chernobyl and Pripyat for quite a while. I've seen the books (Polidori), the exhibits (again Polidori comes to mind), and some great documentaries with exceptional photographs from organizations such as National Geographic. I'm not a documentary style photographer and have wanted to interpret this area in my own style.
Our project is called Volatile Particles - inspired by an article examining the effects of the Chernobyl disaster upon the local area and more widely across the world. It refers to the contaminants that were released into the air from the meltdown and the fact that half of these landed outside the immediate area, some affecting regions as far as the UK. The exhibit will explore the Chernobyl disaster through photography, documentary video, and personal stories of survivors and those who reside in the local area today. By examining the disaster through resident's voices, the aim is to personalize the photography and experience for the viewer. In the end, our exhibit will combine photography, documentary video, personal stories (hopefully), and be juxtaposed with our increasing dependence on the nuclear industry and how we are working to ensure that this type of disaster does not happen on Canadian soil. All thanks in part to the Ontario Arts Council.
And of course, we will have a wild (mis)adventure exploring Ukraine - from Kyiv in the North, to Odessa in the South, and Lviv in the West. So where are we now?
- plane tickets - check
- Chernobyl tour booked - check
- place to stay - check
- itinerary finalized - well, mostly
- have what I need - kinda
Stay tuned for posts of our journey - planning, travel, touring, and final exhibit. Dobranich!
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